Into Peru

Current Location: Piura, Peru
Distance Cycled to Date: 12, 827 km
Flat Tires to Date: 44 (Keenan - 23, Jeff - 21)
Guinea Pigs Eaten to Date: 2

Easter Weekend was considerably different for Keenan and I this year. We left Latacunga after a day of rest from our tough climb up Mount Cotopaxi, and had a short day to the village of Mocha. After realising there was nowhere to stay in town we found ourselves with a problem. We were too far from Riobamba to make it for the night and everything is fenced off with no possibility to stealth camp. However, as we were searching for somewhere to ask to camp we saw a police station right in front of us, and the police officers immediately agreed we could camp there for the night. This was perfect for us, so with our accomodation out of the way we headed across the street to try an Andean specialty that Mocha is known for, guinea pig. We were both a bit apprehensive when our plates arrived - the whole animal, head, feet and all spread out for us. But our hunger quickly overcame any timidness and soon we were both devouring our dinner. We came to the conclusion it tasted something like a fish and a chicken, some bites being quite delicious actually. We cleaned the whole animal and left the restaurant glad we gave it a try and also with a bit of an empty stomach - guinea pigs just aren`t very big.

We left Mocha the following morning and rode along the Panamerican, until we branched off after Riobamba to make our way over the nearly 4000 m high pass. We made it close to 37oo m, before we decided to end for the day. It was quite cold and beginning to rain when we saw some big dirt piles just off the highway - perfect for a stealth spot for the night. We cooked out in the drizzle and then were in our tent very early, getting in a good sleep before the rest of the climb the following day.

We were up early and were rewarded with views of Mt. Chimborazo in the distance, the highest peak in Ecuador. We were feeling good, despite only having a few crackers for breakfast. We had an early start and quickly reached the summit. We were excited, our long 4000 m descent back to sea level was beginning! The road wound down the valley, clinging to the steep mountainside. However, very quickly we realized this was not the amazing descent we had imagined. At first the pavement was filled with potholes and gravel sections, but that soon gave way to only gravel. We were on our brakes nearly the entire time, gripping as hard as we could, needing only to stop and rest our sore hands. We went down and down, the clouds of dust from vehicles irritating our eyes and clinging to our sticky bodies. We averaged under 20km/h, which was frustrating as we lost so much elevation. But it was downhill, and we hardly had to pedal all day... so not all bad.

We pushed to make it to El Truinfo, and as the sun was setting we were left with little choice and ended on the outskirts of town at a Motel. It really wasn´t too bad and it had a shower. The shower felt great and I don`t think water has ever been so dirty after a shower in my life. While cooking our supper, we had left our SPOT messenger outside sending a gps ok signal to our parents, as we do every night. However, when we went back to get it after eating we had found it had dissappeared. The staff had no idea what had happened to it, and so we couldn`t really do anything. The ridiculous part is that it is useless to whoever stole it, as it only sends a signal all registered in our name to our contacts. So that was extremely unfortunate.

We left the following morning and rode to Guayaquil where we were meeting some friends of some friends we were put in contact with. Riding through the busy, chaotic city was a crazy experience, but we made it safely to their house and were glad we did. They treated us like family and we had a great time getting to know Juan, his wife Loy and their son Julian. We ended up spending a full 3 days relaxing in the comforts of their home. As well we were able to have our bikes looked at again and repaired. As we left Quito we had become less and less impressed with the job they had done there, but now they are back in good shape.

Leaving Guayaquil, we headed south to the coast and into Peru. The landscape has slowly changed from green crops lining the highway into a dusty, dry wasteland. The highway followed the coast for a time with views of the ocean as we made our way south. Now it´s turned inland leaving behind any sort of cool breeze and we are stuck with the sun beating down on us. It has been fairly flat though so we have been able to make good time, which is nice to do. The riding has been pretty boring the last few days with little to see, but dusty small towns with very little to eat. We really don`t know what people do for food here, as the stores seem to be stocked with only drinks and cookies. We`ve been forced to eat at some of the local restaurants, which isn`t too bad either considering for $2 you can get a big plate of rice, fried chicken and a little salad. Though that´s the only menu choice, at every single restaurant. It starts to get a little old.

We are now in Piura, staying in the city stocking up with supplies as we head out into a 215 km stretch of empty desert tomorrow. With a little luck we´ll cross it easily in two days, and then take another day off in Chiclayo for Keenan's birthday. Maybe we'll even stay in a hotel with hot water and a door on the bathroom. Just maybe. We'll let you know.