Bips and Bops

Current Location: Huaraz, Peru
Distance Cycled to Date: Unchanged
Days Spent in Huaraz, Peru: 13

In writing our blog entries, we try to maintain a smooth narrative to tell you our stories. But so many little things get missed along the way, so we thought we'd give you a few little bips and bops from along the way.

Spandex Cycling Shorts

A little over 6 months into our trip, I woke up one morning at the Costa Rican border, and started my daily routine of packing up my sleeping bag and getting dressed. I reached for my trusty spandex cycling shorts to get dressed for the day. We each brought along 2 pairs of shorts for the trip (with the intention of washing them daily - what optimists we were back then!). Being my favourite shorts of the two pairs, I had easily worn them over 100 times by this point. But as I was about to put them on, I looked at the tag, for what may have been the first time. Ladies Size Large. What? Over 100 times I had put on and off my shorts, and only on the day we entered Costa Rica did I realize that I had mistakenly bought Ladies cycling shorts. Still though - they fit nice and snug, and I can't really complain. However, I've decided that my black shorts are now my favourites.

Rummy Standings

1st - Jeff (13-11-0)
2nd - Keenan (11-13-0)

The Neverending Search for Peanut Butter

Almost every cyclist has a staple of peanut butter in their diet. It just makes sense. But the one fear that we always have is that we'll reach the point to the south where we just won't be able to find it anymore. When we reached San Diego, California, we stocked up. Would we be able to find it in Mexico? We didn't know, and so we weighed ourselves down just in case. Of course, Northern Baja has Walmarts and Costcos, and so we found some more. But - would we be able to find it once we left the orbit of the US and their tourists? We couldn't risk it, and so we stocked up some more. We had jars and jars of it, and hoped that one day we'd find it again. In La Paz, before leaving the Baja Penisula and heading to the mainland, we found a supermarket stocked with it. But could we find it in the mainland? We just didn't know, and so again, the panniers were weighed down. Luckily for us Mexico had great chains of supermarkets, and every city we stopped in, we would make sure we had at least an extra jar or two, just in case it was our last chance. This has kept going, time after time after time. We read in cyclists blogs how they can't find peanut butter in the country to our south, and so before leaving, we resupply with as much peanut butter as we can carry. Every single country that we've been to, we have found peanut butter. And still, we keep carrying extra jars, as if for luck. We heard that in Peru, you can't find peanut butter. Today we bought our 3rd jar of the country. So - a piece of advice for touring cyclists - if you look for peanut butter, you will find it.

A New Look

While we were in Trujillo, we finally couldn´t do it anymore. Every time we ate we would get a mouthful of mustache, and we realized that it was time to shave once more. So a trip to the barber and $2 later, we were clean-cut and clean-shaven. Here's the before and after.

Rankings

We like to make lists. We're working on top 10 lists for whatever we can think of, mainly because it's fun. And so when we left Panama, we ranked every country we've been in on a variety of angles. Here's a few. All of them are completely biased, most of which are based on one or two good (or bad) days. But they're our lists, and we can do what we want with them.

Central American Colas

1.Pepsi Retro Cola (Mexico)
2.Coca-Cola (All)
3.Pepsi Cola (All)
4.Super Cola (Guatemala)
5.Shaler Kola (Nicaragua)*
6.Salva Cola (El Salvador)
7.Raptor Cola (Guatemala)

*Jeff would place this at number 8 or lower if possible, whereas Keenan would place it at number 1. We compromised.

Highways

1.Canada
2.USA
3.Mexico
4.Nicaragua
5.El Salvador
6.Guatemala
7.Honduras
8.Costa Rica
9.Panama

Supermarkets

1.USA
2.Canada
3.Mexico
4.Panama
5.Costa Rica
6.El Salvador
7.Guatemala
8.Nicaragua
9.Honduras

Ease of Free Camping

1.Canada
2.Mexico
3.USA
4.Guatemala
5.Panama
6.El Salvador
7.Costa Rica
8.Nicaragua
9.Honduras

ride for HOPE team doubles.

We've been in Huaraz now for a long time. Nearly two weeks, which is the longest we've ever stayed in any one place besides Christmas. We didn't intend to stay so long - we came here with the intention of meeting Laura, a Canadian friend that we've met up with twice before in Ecuador and spend a few days here with her. Here in Huaraz, she rented a mountain bike and came along for a 2 day trip, to see what this touring cycling is all about. And of course, she decided she couldn't pass up the opportunity to join in on this adventure. After hearing our stories and seeing our pictures, she knew that she had to come along for at least a little while. If you really think about it, you might decide that buying a bicycle and joining two relative strangers on a bike trip through Peru without any planning or preparation is a little crazy. But - the crazy part of it comes when her sister surprised her with a visit to Peru, and after meeting us, decided that she had to come along too.

And so - the ride for HOPE team has doubled for the time being, with the 4 of us nearly ready to head out into the mountains of Peru. We've spent the last week doing what Jeff and I took a year to do - buying bicycles, sleeping bags, and a tent, and getting racks and panniers custom built for the trip. It's been quite an adventure, with daily trips to welders and seamstresses, trying to explain just what we need. It's crazy how you can get anything made for you in a Peruvian marketplace. Now we'll just see how good these homemade denim panniers hold up. The four of us have had a pretty great time this week getting everything organized, and just getting to know each other. Hopefully the fun will continue once they find out just what it's like to ride up and down Peruvian gravel roads, and over 4000 metre passes. We'll let you know how it goes.

Jeff and Keenan Ride Northern Peru

Current Location: Huaraz, Peru
Distance Cycled to Date: 13,600 km
Flat Tires to Date: 47 (Keenan - 25, Jeff - 22)

Keenan and Jeff wanted to write a blog in the 3rd person, and so they did.

Arriving in Trujillo, Peru the boys found themselves on the doorstep of the Casa de Ciclistas. For the past weeks they had been talking about this moment, wondering, "Will we meet other cyclists?", "How long can we stay?", "Do you think we can get our bikes looked at?" Now as they stood anxiously waiting after their third knocking attempt, they began to worry nobody would be there. As they speculated as to what they should do, the door mercifully swung open. The boys were welcomed in to the house as if they were old friends. Introductions were exchanged and soon they felt as if they were indeed old friends.

The brothers were overwhelmed with excitement as they talked with the other 5 touring cyclists, and to the gracious owner of the Casa de Ciclistas, Lucho. Soon after arrival a large book was in their laps, its pages filled with the names of everyone who had stayed in this house before them. Flipping through the pages they were amazed at the sheer number of others who had passed through on their own adventure in the past 25 years. Writing their names in spots 1112, and 1113, they finally felt as if they had made it. Hours were spent in curiousity looking through all the old guestbooks, seeing all the faces and thoughts of those who had visited the Casa de Ciclistas. Coming across entries by people the boys had been inspired by years before was very special for them.

Over the next few days the boys would have a chance to relax and reflect on their trip so far. Although they had been traveling for eight months, both felt as if there was so much more to still experience. Talking with the other cyclists who had started in the south only fueled this desire to keep going. One evening in particular would prove to be pivotal. Hearing about all the amazing sites further south, both knew at that moment they had to continue to the end of the road - Ushuaia, Argentina. Anything else would be selling themselves short.

With this new resolve the boys left Trujillo heading up into the spectacular Cordillera Blanca mountains following the route that was recommended to them. Off the pavement they were on the 'good gravel' road they had heard about. However, after rattling along the gravel road, less than 2 kilometres in, Keenan was already having doubts, "Maybe we should only do part of this mountain route." The road would take their full concentration only allowing them to enjoy the scenery when they stopped. Keenan would stop and say, "Check that out," and Jeff once finally looking up would exclaim, "Wow, this is pretty cool!" They continued on in this fashion punishing their bikes along the rough road, soaking in the new surroundings with every break they took.

The road would graciously give way to pavement for a short stretch, mocking them as it lasted only 8km before becoming the rockiest road either had ever experienced. The single-lane road would twist through the narrow canyon beside the rushing river offering the boys some amazing sights as well as some unnerving rides through the dark tunnels. Once accustomed to the slow going nature of this road they both thoroughly enjoyed themselves. Spectacular scenery would surround them for days on end, with very little traffic to worry about. They found some great campsites offering some incredible views as the sun slowly set each night. Both agreed that these were some of their favourite moments of the trip so far.

When Keenan had first described this route to Jeff he thought it was a bit crazy, particularly when he described the 20km section with 35 tunnels on a single-lane dirt road. However, once reaching the Canon del Pato and the series of dark tunnels he was glad they had decided on the route. Each tunnel was an exhilarating rush for the brothers as their hearts raced and the possibility of meeting a vehicle in the dark narrow space pushed them to reach the end. With the noise of the river rushing just below the steep cliff, any vehicle noise was masked, which only added to the excitement. It would also lead to three separate tight squeezes as the boys pushed against the wall and the vehicles passed merely inches away. Once through the last of the tunnels and onto the pavement a hint of relief could be seen on their faces as they smoothly rode on.

Reaching the town of Caraz both felt like they needed a rest after the rough roads and climbing over 2000 m in elevation. With snow capped peaks surrounding them and the possibility of many hikes, they decided to visit Laguna Paron, a short 1 hour bus ride to the village of Paron and then a 4 to 5 hour hike to the lake. The thing the boys didn't know as they boarded the rickety van was that the lake had been closed to tourists. They arrived at the village shortly after 8 am, excited about the hike and with their backpacks full of their camping gear for the night. The bus disappeared and they only got 4 steps past the blockade before being stopped. Because of some un-understandable political reason, they couldn't hike to the lake. The brothers were discouraged, but didn't know what to do - walk back to town?... wait for the next bus?... they certainly couldn't visit the lake.

Keenan and Jeff didn't let that get them down for long though and decided they might as well try some sort of hike. After all, they had everything they needed for 2 days already packed on their backs. They cut through the schoolyard and some fields before stumbling upon a path, which seemed to lead up the mountain. Great, they thought and followed it. The path continued halfway up the mountain before becoming unrecognizable. Being the determined individuals they are, they didn't let this stop them and simply continued up the steep slope making their own path. It was tough going, with the altitude starting to hamper their breathing. When they reached the top they were rewarded beyond what they could have imagined with an amazing view of the surrounding mountain peaks, and a deep canyon below. Setting up their tent on the ridge before the cliff, both were sure that this was probably the best camp spot they had ever had.

Both were dreading the climb down the following morning and rightfully so. It was a steep grassy slope dotted with rocks, which with the frost melting created a slow, terrifying descent for the brothers. However, they carefully made their way down and arrived back in the village. A large crowd of young students surrounded them as they sat and waited for the bus. The kids would crowd in close just staring, as if they were an abstract piece of art they couldn't figure out. Then a few kids gained some confidence and had a great time throwing bugs in Jeff's hair and down his back. Keenan also thought this was funny. The bus did eventually come and they squished in the van with the 21 others (with three hanging off of the roof) for the ride back into Caraz.

The following day they made their way along the paved pot-hole filled highway to Huaraz. The road gently led them another 1000 m higher, as they passed towering cloud covered mountains. Once in Huaraz they met a local mountain biker who proceeded to help them find a suitable (eg, very cheap) hotel for their stay as well as introduce them to some local bike and travel enthusiasts. The Cook brothers are now enjoying the bigger city and all it offers before heading into the mountains and through more rough spectacular stretches. They can't wait to see what more Peru has to offer.


Keenan and Jeff also wanted to put up an album of them riding through Northern Peru, and so they did. Check it out here.

Why We're Still Riding.

Current Location: Trujillo, Peru
Distance Cycled to Date: 13,275 km
Flat Tires to Date: 45 (Keenan - 24, Jeff - 21)

We've now been on the road for exactly 8 months, and there have been a lot of challenging days. We've biked up incredibly steep hills, through rain, through cold, through hot, and against headwinds that seem determined to send us back home. But probably the hardest thing that we've had to deal with has been biking through areas affected by incredible poverty. Before leaving home we had committed to raising $50,000 for a HOPE International project in the Dominican Republic, rebuilding irrigation systems and community greenhouses. And in these last months of cycling we have seen firsthand the need present in so much of Latin America. It's impossible to forget just why we wanted to raise this money to help those in need - every day we see such poverty that it's heartbreaking. Here in northern Peru we have ridden over 700 km through a dry, desert landscape, with small settlements of only mud-brick shacks; people living with almost nothing at all.

Jeff and I have not wanted to come across as continually asking the same people over and over again for donations. We have a strong subscriber base to our blog, and we know that the majority of you, our regular readers, have already made donations - some quite sizable ones. And we want to thank you for that. Every time we get an email from home telling us about another cheque sent in we get so excited. With your help, we have now raised over $14,000.

This is great news; however, we still have a ways to go. We had set an initial goal of $50,000, and still believe that we can meet this in order to help rebuild these irrigation systems and community greenhouses needed to enable villages in the San Jose de Ocoa region to grow sufficient food to feed themselves and start producing an income. Every day as we cycle we are reminded just how lucky we are to have been born in Canada, and have all the opportunties that we do.

We want to thank everybody who has already placed a donation through our website to HOPE International. Now we want to remind you that we still have room for this fundraising to grow. And so we'd love it if you could tell a friend, email your cousin, and talk to your boss. Tell them what we're doing, tell them how much a difference they could make with just a small donation, and always keep in mind just how blessed we are.

HOPE's donation page can be found here - just select 'other' on the drop-down menu, and write "ride for HOPE", or "Keenan and Jeff's ride for HOPE" on the comments section to make sure that the money goes towards this project in the Dominican.

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At the moment, we're in Trujillo, Peru, taking a few days off at the 'Casa de Ciclistas', a house run by Lucho, a local cyclist dedicated to giving touring cyclists a place to relax here in Peru. We've biked for nearly a week through pretty featurless desert, through the potential thieves lair of Paijan, and arrived here to meet 5 other cyclists, all heading north. It's been great to be able to just relax and talk with other cyclists, the first we've met on the road since Guatemala, and get information on all the routes and sites ahead.

We've put up our Ecuador album - you can go check it out now, and then after that, go tell a friend to donate! More information on HOPE and on the project we're raising money for can be found on our website. Send some people this link, forward on the email; let's see what kind of a difference we really can make.