Jeff and Keenan Ride Northern Peru

Current Location: Huaraz, Peru
Distance Cycled to Date: 13,600 km
Flat Tires to Date: 47 (Keenan - 25, Jeff - 22)

Keenan and Jeff wanted to write a blog in the 3rd person, and so they did.

Arriving in Trujillo, Peru the boys found themselves on the doorstep of the Casa de Ciclistas. For the past weeks they had been talking about this moment, wondering, "Will we meet other cyclists?", "How long can we stay?", "Do you think we can get our bikes looked at?" Now as they stood anxiously waiting after their third knocking attempt, they began to worry nobody would be there. As they speculated as to what they should do, the door mercifully swung open. The boys were welcomed in to the house as if they were old friends. Introductions were exchanged and soon they felt as if they were indeed old friends.

The brothers were overwhelmed with excitement as they talked with the other 5 touring cyclists, and to the gracious owner of the Casa de Ciclistas, Lucho. Soon after arrival a large book was in their laps, its pages filled with the names of everyone who had stayed in this house before them. Flipping through the pages they were amazed at the sheer number of others who had passed through on their own adventure in the past 25 years. Writing their names in spots 1112, and 1113, they finally felt as if they had made it. Hours were spent in curiousity looking through all the old guestbooks, seeing all the faces and thoughts of those who had visited the Casa de Ciclistas. Coming across entries by people the boys had been inspired by years before was very special for them.

Over the next few days the boys would have a chance to relax and reflect on their trip so far. Although they had been traveling for eight months, both felt as if there was so much more to still experience. Talking with the other cyclists who had started in the south only fueled this desire to keep going. One evening in particular would prove to be pivotal. Hearing about all the amazing sites further south, both knew at that moment they had to continue to the end of the road - Ushuaia, Argentina. Anything else would be selling themselves short.

With this new resolve the boys left Trujillo heading up into the spectacular Cordillera Blanca mountains following the route that was recommended to them. Off the pavement they were on the 'good gravel' road they had heard about. However, after rattling along the gravel road, less than 2 kilometres in, Keenan was already having doubts, "Maybe we should only do part of this mountain route." The road would take their full concentration only allowing them to enjoy the scenery when they stopped. Keenan would stop and say, "Check that out," and Jeff once finally looking up would exclaim, "Wow, this is pretty cool!" They continued on in this fashion punishing their bikes along the rough road, soaking in the new surroundings with every break they took.

The road would graciously give way to pavement for a short stretch, mocking them as it lasted only 8km before becoming the rockiest road either had ever experienced. The single-lane road would twist through the narrow canyon beside the rushing river offering the boys some amazing sights as well as some unnerving rides through the dark tunnels. Once accustomed to the slow going nature of this road they both thoroughly enjoyed themselves. Spectacular scenery would surround them for days on end, with very little traffic to worry about. They found some great campsites offering some incredible views as the sun slowly set each night. Both agreed that these were some of their favourite moments of the trip so far.

When Keenan had first described this route to Jeff he thought it was a bit crazy, particularly when he described the 20km section with 35 tunnels on a single-lane dirt road. However, once reaching the Canon del Pato and the series of dark tunnels he was glad they had decided on the route. Each tunnel was an exhilarating rush for the brothers as their hearts raced and the possibility of meeting a vehicle in the dark narrow space pushed them to reach the end. With the noise of the river rushing just below the steep cliff, any vehicle noise was masked, which only added to the excitement. It would also lead to three separate tight squeezes as the boys pushed against the wall and the vehicles passed merely inches away. Once through the last of the tunnels and onto the pavement a hint of relief could be seen on their faces as they smoothly rode on.

Reaching the town of Caraz both felt like they needed a rest after the rough roads and climbing over 2000 m in elevation. With snow capped peaks surrounding them and the possibility of many hikes, they decided to visit Laguna Paron, a short 1 hour bus ride to the village of Paron and then a 4 to 5 hour hike to the lake. The thing the boys didn't know as they boarded the rickety van was that the lake had been closed to tourists. They arrived at the village shortly after 8 am, excited about the hike and with their backpacks full of their camping gear for the night. The bus disappeared and they only got 4 steps past the blockade before being stopped. Because of some un-understandable political reason, they couldn't hike to the lake. The brothers were discouraged, but didn't know what to do - walk back to town?... wait for the next bus?... they certainly couldn't visit the lake.

Keenan and Jeff didn't let that get them down for long though and decided they might as well try some sort of hike. After all, they had everything they needed for 2 days already packed on their backs. They cut through the schoolyard and some fields before stumbling upon a path, which seemed to lead up the mountain. Great, they thought and followed it. The path continued halfway up the mountain before becoming unrecognizable. Being the determined individuals they are, they didn't let this stop them and simply continued up the steep slope making their own path. It was tough going, with the altitude starting to hamper their breathing. When they reached the top they were rewarded beyond what they could have imagined with an amazing view of the surrounding mountain peaks, and a deep canyon below. Setting up their tent on the ridge before the cliff, both were sure that this was probably the best camp spot they had ever had.

Both were dreading the climb down the following morning and rightfully so. It was a steep grassy slope dotted with rocks, which with the frost melting created a slow, terrifying descent for the brothers. However, they carefully made their way down and arrived back in the village. A large crowd of young students surrounded them as they sat and waited for the bus. The kids would crowd in close just staring, as if they were an abstract piece of art they couldn't figure out. Then a few kids gained some confidence and had a great time throwing bugs in Jeff's hair and down his back. Keenan also thought this was funny. The bus did eventually come and they squished in the van with the 21 others (with three hanging off of the roof) for the ride back into Caraz.

The following day they made their way along the paved pot-hole filled highway to Huaraz. The road gently led them another 1000 m higher, as they passed towering cloud covered mountains. Once in Huaraz they met a local mountain biker who proceeded to help them find a suitable (eg, very cheap) hotel for their stay as well as introduce them to some local bike and travel enthusiasts. The Cook brothers are now enjoying the bigger city and all it offers before heading into the mountains and through more rough spectacular stretches. They can't wait to see what more Peru has to offer.


Keenan and Jeff also wanted to put up an album of them riding through Northern Peru, and so they did. Check it out here.